Techniques

Techniques

Step-by-step how-to for wood prep, joinery, and finishing. Start with measuring and milling, then move into glue-ups, joints, and finish schedules.

Line diagram in two parts. Left: the top of a board with a squiggle face mark on its best face and its reference edge along the bottom. A combination square's head sits against the reference edge, and a thin knife line runs along its blade. An X on the right of the line marks the waste side, and a note says to cut on the waste side so the line stays on the finished piece. Right: a story stick with four marks above a matching part, with arrows transferring each mark straight down, no math required. A note at the bottom explains burning an inch: line the 1-inch mark up with the edge, then subtract an inch from the reading.

Measuring and Marking Accurately

Why your parts don't quite fit, and the simple layout habits — one tape, sharp lines, story sticks, and reference faces — that fix it.

Pipe clamps holding a glued lamination of light and reddish boards, with glue squeeze-out along each seam

Glue-Ups Without Gaps

Prep, dry-fit, clamp, and clean up: a calm, repeatable process for panels and assemblies that come out flat and tight.

A wooden mortise gauge scribing parallel lines on the face of a board

Mortise and Tenon by Hand

Layout with a mortise gauge, chopping a clean mortise, sawing and fitting the tenon, and drawboring for a joint that stays tight.

A small metal block plane resting on the edge of a light hardwood board held in a bench vise, with a few wood shavings in the plane's mouth

Easing and Chamfering Edges by Hand

Soften the sharp edges on small gifts with a block plane and a sanding block: mark two pencil lines, plane the end grain first, then the long grain, and finish with a light sanding.

Close-up of a band saw blade running down through the slot in a metal saw table, with sawdust on the table and the upper blade guide above

Resawing Thin Stock for Small Gifts

Slice a thick board into thin boards at the band saw for ornaments, tags and small boxes: mark a center line, stand the board on edge against a tall fence, feed slowly, then smooth the sawn faces.

Coping saw blade cutting along a penciled curve in a sheet of plywood

How to Cut Curves and Inside Cutouts in Wood

Cut smooth curves and closed inside shapes with a scroll saw, jigsaw, bandsaw or coping saw: pick the saw for the curve, drill blade-entry holes, use relief cuts, and clean up to the line.

Wooden crate with a fresh coat of linseed oil deepening the color of the grain

Oil Finish vs Polyurethane on Furniture

When to wipe on an oil finish versus brush polyurethane on furniture: look, repairability, build time, and how it differs from food-safe board finishes.

Table saw blade covered by a clear blade guard

Crosscutting and Ripping Basics

How to choose a crosscut or a rip, set up for straight cuts, and keep parts square — on a table saw, miter saw, or with a circular saw and guide.

Long vintage jointer hand plane resting on a maple workbench top

Edge Jointing for Panels

How to get board edges straight and square for gap-free panel glue-ups — with a jointer, a table-saw jointing jig, or hand planes.

Benchtop router table with fence and featherboards

Router Basics for Edges

Clean edge profiles with a router: bit choice, depth in light passes, climb vs. conventional feed on outside edges, and simple bearing control.

Chisel held in a honing guide on a sharpening stone

Sharpening Chisels and Plane Irons

A simple, repeatable sharpening routine: flatten the back, set a bevel, add a microbevel, and know when a tool is actually sharp.

Hand applying wood stain to a shaped plaque blank on a shop workbench

Staining vs. Painting Wood

When to stain, when to paint, and how to prep for each — grain showing through color versus a solid film that hides the wood.

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